“Exploring Amsterdam with Laura”
With varied opinions circulating about Amsterdam, I was eager to experience it firsthand. This city is known for its world class museums, historic architecture, and picturesque canals. They in fact have more canals than Venice.
I was immediately intrigued by the houseboats that line these canals and function as a neighborhood within a neighborhood. These "house-ships" as they are called, gained popularity in the early 20th century during a severe housing crisis in Amsterdam when people began converting cargo ships into living spaces. Once considered a slum on the water, these house-ships have since increased in popularity and value. Today, many are luxury homes and even Airbnbs for those wanting to experience canal life. With 2,400 house-ships in the inner city, Amsterdam's canals have earned the city the nickname "Venice of the North."
Another feature that caught my attention while walking around the city center was the height and shape of the houses and apartment flats. I learned that in the 17th century, homeowners were taxed based on their house width, leading to the construction of narrow, tall houses to avoid higher taxes. This historical practice continues to influence Dutch architecture, with narrow facades remaining a distinctive feature of Amsterdam's houses to this day.
“A Country with More Bicycles Than People”
The cycling craze took off in the 1920’s when a large influx of inexpensive German bicycles flooded the market due to the economic crisis. Cycling offered a faster alternative to walking and was more affordable than owning a car or a horse.
Today, the Netherlands boasts an impressive 23 million bicycles for its 17 million residents, with its capital city of Amsterdam leading the charge in pedal power.
From postal carriers to office workers to adorable elementary school kids on their "bike bus," cycling is the heartbeat of the city. Even daycare centers have pick-ups, with teachers pedaling by with a trough full of toddlers, all in matching bright-colored little traffic vests. Seriously, Google "Dutch Preschool Bus"—it's adorable!
With 400 kilometers of dedicated cycling paths and many streets closed off to cars entirely, Amsterdam is truly cycling crazy!
Bike Amsterdam: Hidden Gems Tour
Our tour guide, Mariela, was excellent at keeping our group of 9 together as she skillfully navigated us through Amsterdam's side streets and canal filled neighborhoods, offering a refreshing break from the tourist-packed central area. Originally from Argentina, Mariela had visited the city as a tourist 9 years ago and ultimately decided to make it her home. She was a treasure trove of fascinating stories, intriguing history facts, and shared fun modern-day-life insights about the city.
Greenwoods, a beloved local spot along the Keizersgracht canal, often sees long lines, with patrons queuing across the street until the host calls them to the next available table. Accessing the dining room involves descending steep, ladder-like stairs, as the kitchen is upstairs. The diligent wait staff skillfully navigate these stairs, balancing dishes with precision in a seemingly chaotic yet efficient manner. Once you’re fortunate enough to secure a table, you descend the stairs quickly yet cautiously as you are seemingly propelled to your table, once there you can relax and peruse the menu.
The wait was absolutely worth it, as the food was divine! I rarely go out for breakfast, so finding a place that serves breakfast all day felt like such a fun treat! I enjoyed their vegan gluten-free breakfast platter, which included homemade hash browns, roasted portobello mushrooms, grilled tomatoes, baked beans, homemade vegan black pudding, and toast. It was hearty and filling alongside a pot of Earl Grey tea.
Canal Boat Cruise
A visit to Amsterdam isn't complete without a boat tour of the canals. I chose the Blue Boat Company from many options, mainly because they offered fully enclosed boats, and rain was forecasted for the day of my tour. This turned out to be a wise decision, as we experienced all seasons during the 75-minute journey.
We started in glorious sunshine, then encountered a sudden downpour. Afterward, the sun reappeared, but a cold wind soon brought hail, with little frozen pellets striking the glass-enclosed boat. Despite the unpredictable weather, we glided along in complete peace.
At one point, we passed a "luxury all-inclusive cocktail cruise" seeking shelter under a bridge to protect its guests from the harsh conditions. Servers frantically handed out blankets as the guests huddled together, trying to stay warm while sipping their cocktails, topped off with ice, courtesy of the sky.
My boat even provided squeegees to clear the windows after each gust. It was a great experience!
This is Holland
One of the most unexpectedly delightful experiences of my trip was the "This is Holland" encounter, something I would eagerly repeat. This 5D flight simulation immerses you in a journey over 22 different locations throughout the Netherlands, complete with wind and water effects, set to captivating music and commentary. The bird's-eye view of the entire country was so stunning that it brought tears to my eyes.
Before the unique 9-minute flight, you stroll through several exhibits providing fascinating insights into the facts and history of Holland. The experience was so incredible that I entertained the thought of purchasing another ticket for a repeat ride. Unlike the overly jarring and nauseating simulation rides found elsewhere, "This is Holland" offered a smooth, calming, and utterly breathtaking experience, akin to Disney's Soarin'.
During my time in Amsterdam, I resided in the Noord district along the north riverside. Despite its reputation as "unpolished post-industrialism," I found the neighborhood utterly charming. With the metro station just one stop away from the central station, commuting into the city was effortless. Additionally, living near Jumbo’s grocery store, which is akin to a Whole Foods, was a convenient perk.
Lowlander Botanical
In my neighborhood, there was also a waterfront restaurant that occupies a sprawling warehouse. The atmosphere was inviting with potted trees adorning the space, complementing the lovely flower arrangements gracing each table. The establishment had cleverly divided the interior into multiple small living room-style spaces.
I opted for a soup-sandwich combo, indulging in their borscht soup paired with their open-faced roasted oyster mushroom sandwich with homemade sunflower spread.
Keukenhof, “The Garden of Europe”
As luck would have it, I timed my visit perfectly to coincide with the opening weekend of the season at Keukenhof Gardens. Upon arrival, I was greeted by the lively tunes of a band playing, setting the tone for what felt like a journey into a floral wonderland. Much like England's Kew Gardens and Canada's Butchart Gardens, Keukenhof Gardens in the Netherlands is renowned for its breathtaking displays. The vibrant atmosphere, reminiscent of a flower-induced theme park, made it clear that this visit would be unforgettable.
The preparation for this floral extravaganza begins in early October, as 40 gardeners embark on the monumental task of planting 7 million bulbs, including over 1,600 varieties, with 800 of them being tulips. By December, the planting is complete, with flowerbeds synchronized to ensure blossoms throughout the park's eight-week opening season. Three bulbs are strategically placed in each location, with the shallowest bulb blooming first for three weeks, followed by the subsequent layers. This meticulous planning draws crowds of over 1.4 million visitors each Spring to witness this stunning spectacle.
Tulips of course take center stage, but the gardens also featured a colorful array of hyacinths, daffodils, roses, lilies, carnations, and irises. In one of the pavilion houses they also had a fantastic display of Amaryllis.
Walking around Keukenhof, I couldn’t help but feel my maternal grandmother's presence beside me. Being the English lady that she was, she had a special fondness for gardens and water features. I had many moments of imagining her wandering with me, almost hearing her exclaim over the vibrancy of the hyacinths or the soothing sound of the fountains and rock waterscapes.
One of my frequent tasks at her home used to be adjusting the water features to achieve the preferred pitch, tone, and speed at which the water cascaded. Through years of training, I confess my ear instinctively stops and listens, either giving the nod of "Granny approval" or smiling to myself, knowing she wouldn't have liked this one—too rousing or roguish. She often waxed eloquent on the difference between a pottering fountain and a tootling fountain, to her there was a clear difference. All her years of boarding school must have truly refined her into a lady with a sensitive ear. I like to think that she now enjoys the gardens of heaven, I am certain their fountains cascade with perfection!
