“Devon Days: A Nostalgic Return to Exeter”
In my opinion, train travel is one of the best ways to explore England. I love that I don’t have to navigate or worry about driving on the left-hand side. On a train, I can just relax and enjoy the gorgeous English countryside.
One of my favorite things is that dogs are allowed on trains—I’ve seen so many adorable pups along my journeys. Like Charlie, the dog featured below, who settled right by my feet. He was the sweetest, and I was happy to have his company.
Later, he lounged next to his owner, completely stretched out on a seat of his own. The ticket inspector said that Charlie looked like the most contented passenger on the train that day.
Exeter City
I have strong English heritage in my lineage, with most of my family hailing from Devon. My granny grew up here in Devon’s capital city, Exeter. I hadn’t visited Exeter in over ten years, so returning to these family stomping grounds felt incredibly special.
Walking down Exeter’s high street and through the main shopping areas was such a fun experience, imagining my Granny Mary and Great-Granny Ivy doing their shopping there. While some stores are different, many of the old building facades remain intact.
Stepcote Hill, in Exeter’s historic West Quarter, is home to “The House That Moved,” one of Devon’s oldest private dwellings, built between 1420 and 1460. In 1961, the house was relocated to make way for a modern bridge, it was a citywide effort to preserve the beloved structure. It gained further fame through David Rees’ children’s book, The House That Moved.
The Royal Albert Memorial Museum
The museum is housed in a beautiful Gothic Revival building made of local red sandstone. Inside, you’ll find four main collections: antiquities, art, natural history, and world cultures.
The exhibits are thoughtfully laid out, and while the collections are vast—featuring both massive and tiny artifacts—the museum isn’t overwhelming.
One of the museum’s standout features is Gerald, a 17-foot-tall stuffed Masai giraffe. He has been voted a museum favorite many times, and it’s easy to see why. There’s something charming about Gerald, as if his personality lives on through his grand display.
In the Exeter city history section they had a collection of audio recordings and artifacts from the Exeter Blitz in World War II. It was especially moving, knowing that my granny and her parents had survived that terrible time.
Between 1940 and 1942, Exeter was raided 19 times, with the most devastating attack occurring on May 4, 1942. On that night, the city was hit with 75 tons of high-explosive bombs and over 10,000 incendiary bombs. Tragically, 156 civilians were killed, 563 were badly injured, and around 1,500 buildings were destroyed or severely damaged. The museum had done a remarkable job recounting the night and honoring those lost.
Exeter’s Historic Quayside
The Quayside is considered one of the city’s most beautiful areas. The cobblestone footpaths lining the quay follow the River Exe, passing the Port Royal pub, Trews Weir Suspension Bridge, and the River & Canal office.
The quayside is a lively area with an eclectic mix of pubs, coffee shops, and antique stores, creating a fun atmosphere for hanging out and people-watching. Some of the shops are housed in old warehouses built into the quayside arches, which makes exploring them even more unique.
Live music and craft fairs often take place along the quay. One afternoon, I was lucky enough to catch a chamber orchestra performing by the river—it was such a treat to sit on a bench, sip a cup of tea, and enjoy the music.
Zizzi’s Italian
I enjoyed a lovely lunch at Zizzi’s on Gandy Street, one of Exeter’s prettiest shopping streets. While I usually prefer unique, local spots, Zizzi’s never disappoints, especially with their attention to food intolerances.
I enjoyed a delicious gluten-free vegan meatball and harissa jalapeño pizza—spicy, tangy, and the perfect fuel for an afternoon of exploring.
Belle Isle Park
This quiet riverside park was the perfect place to escape the hustle and bustle of the high street and offer beautiful views of the Leaf Land wood. The park also had an adorable ginger cat, whom I dubbed Felix. He seemed to be the unofficial ruler of the place, greeting me each time I strolled through.
