“Exploring Powderham Castle: A Living Landmark”
My journey to Powderham started with a scenic 30-minute bus ride from Exeter. The #2 bus drops you off right at the castle gatehouse in the charming hamlet of Kenton.
After disembarking, I walked down a tree-lined path that connects Kenton to the fortified manor of Powderham Castle.
Just over the bridge and beyond the river Kenn you begin to see glimpses of the historical landmark and its extensive 200 acre deer park. The name “Powderham” originates from the ancient Dutch word “polder,” meaning “hamlet of the reclaimed marsh-land.” I had no idea marsh-land could be so lovely.
This helpful map greeted me at the next castle gate and was perfect for getting a lay of the land for the extensive grounds that were before me.
Unlike many historic sites, Powderham remains privately owned, neither part of the National Trust nor English Heritage. It has been in the care of the Courtenay family since its construction in 1391 by Sir Philip de Courtenay. Today, the 19th Earl of Devon, Charles Courtenay, resides in the castle with his two children. One day, his son, Jack, will inherit the title and continue the family’s legacy as the 20th Earl of Devon.
The castle has long been a landmark, even catching the eye of filmmakers. Most notably, it served as a backdrop for the 1993 drama The Remains of the Day, starring Anthony Hopkins, Emma Thompson, and Hugh Grant.
During my visit, I took one of the guided tours of the castle. We were lead by Dave, whose booming voice set the tone for what turned out to be one of the most unconventional castle tours I’ve ever experienced.
Each day, supposedly, the guides are allowed to give one tour that is exclusively their own style, they can go anywhere and talk about anything they want. Dave seized the opportunity with enthusiasm!
Suddenly we were ducking through secret passages, causing some surprise when our group of 36 people and 1 cocker spaniel emerged from behind hidden doors disguised as bookshelves.
We were the envy of other tours as Dave unhooked ropes and disregarded signs that read “No Admittance”. The other volunteers rolled their eyes and mumbled, “Oh dear that’s Dave’s 11:45 no telling where he’s taking them.”
I half expected the castle HR department to come running after us with Non-disclosure agreements and Liability waivers. But somehow we carried on and all survived the unorthodox tour with Lieutenant Dave at the helm.
Some in our group were enthused by the unconventional and slightly bizarre tour others found “Dave’s hyperactive squirrel tour” to be an experience too unique to be repeated. I was somewhere in the middle, it was a bit like being a pinball and had us all a bit dizzy by the end.
We did learn from Dave that nestled within the walls and grounds of Powderham Castle lies an architectural treasure trove that spans centuries. This grand estate boasts medieval, Georgian, and Victorian rooms all under one roof, offering a unique window into history. I enjoyed going through it again on my own at a much more leisurely pace.
Powderham has seen many alterations over its more than 600-year existence, adapting to the needs of each era. Walking through its halls felt like witnessing a historical kaleidoscope, where every room told a different chapter of the castle’s evolution.
For example, the original medieval hall was later transformed in the Georgian period by the addition of a grand staircase—designed so the ladies of the house could ascend more comfortably in their voluminous Georgian skirts, avoiding the narrow medieval spiral staircases.
One of my favorite parts of exploring the castle was chatting with the volunteers stationed throughout.
In the library, archive and restoration volunteers were meticulously cleaning the 8,000+ books.
The process involved carefully turning each page with gloves, special brushes, and pillows to protect the books’ fragile bindings. Among them was a manuscript from 1525, written in Latin.
Volunteer room guides eagerly shared the stories behind every piece of furniture, artwork, or tapestry. Their knowledge and pride in the castle was truly inspiring, adding a personal touch to the visit.
During my visit, I enjoyed a picnic in the rose garden, savoring treats from Marks & Spencer while overlooking the 200-acre deer park and the tranquil banks of the River Exe.
Powderham Castle also serves as a hub for the local community. It closes every Saturday for weddings and special events, and over the years, it has hosted concerts featuring stars like Sir Elton John and Sir Tom Jones.
View from the Rose Garden
The deer, undisturbed by the presence of humans, grazed closer and closer to the garden. A few bucks lounged lazily on the hillside, surveying their domain. One couple walking by remarked that it felt like a safari, but thankfully without the danger of lions lurking nearby.
Views from the Walled Gardens
The walled gardens have served many roles through the years, from kitchen & herb gardens to elegant leisure spaces for the Victorians. The current castle family repurposed them into a charming mini-farm, home to goats, sheep, ducks, geese, ponies, chickens, alpacas, turtles, and guinea pigs. For the little ones, there’s also a fanciful wooden castle play area. Aside from the animals they have several green houses for growing produce to be used in the castle cafe as well.
